Archive for
July 3rd, 2007


Stories

Touring Libyan Blogs: French Rock in Tripoli and US Embassy Affairs in a Coffee Shop

Libyan-French relations, especially in culture and education, have never been totally cut even during the ‘hard' years of the sanctions. The French Cultural Institute though very discreet in downtown Tripoli has been carrying on from its base, providing language courses and library services for as long as I can remember.

Flying Birds author A. Adam has recently attended a music festival sponsored by the ICF and hosted at the beautiful School of Islamic Craft.

“They bring a Rock group this year BIKINI MACHINE (ELECTRO ROCK / France) this band proved that in French Rock still exist and their music inspired by the soul music in the 60's and by the English pop in the 90's but before all , they didn't forget to bring Libyan bands to play Arabic music,”

This just proves that there are more things to bring people together than pull them apart. Wonder who will we groove to next time ?

Khadijateri brought up the subject that the US Embassy in Tripoli is using the coffee shop in the hotel where it is situated to hold interviews for Libyan citizens who are born in the US and who are applying for their US passport.

“They are not allowed into the embassy's offices upstairs, their business is discussed in full earshot of whoever else happens to be in the Corinthia's coffee shop. These Libyan/Americans are usually young guys who are too embarrassed to make an issue out of being met in the coffee shop because they think if they question it their chances of getting the passport (they are rightfully entitled to) might be influenced negatively.”

This has brought to the surface the painful question of visa applications which are still done in Tunis.

As per the website ” On May 31, 2006 the United States of America and the Libyan Arab Jamahiriyah exchanged diplomatic notes confirming the upgrade of the U.S. Liaison Office in Tripoli to a U.S. Embassy.” This means that it is now a fully functioning Embassy. I'm thinking that talking to the potential US citizens in the coffee shop is probably a better idea than in the offices because that is where probably they would NOT have any privacy.

There are two issues here the applicants do not dare to ask for more privacy and they think they are not allowed in the premises. While I personally have not visited the place yet I don't think any bad intentions were meant. It is refreshing to see young Libyans taking the initiative and get their documents sorted out and even seek Khadijateri and ask her advice about how to communicate with Embassy staff.

Taiwan: keep rowing–i-panga na 1001

海浪不斷翻開我的記憶,當我失去海洋給我的回憶時,就是我逐漸結束生命的日子。──夏曼‧藍波安《海浪的記憶》

My memory has been churned by the sea. The day my memory of the sea is lost is the day I am gradually dying. –My memory of the sea by Sharman Lanpoan (a poet in Lanyu)

wooden boat by casyc23
(photo courtesy of casyc23. The red and black circle at the head of the boat is ‘mata-no-tarara' (eye) and sun. It can expel evil spirits and evoke good fortunes.)

In Tao's language, ‘Tao' means ‘human.' Although Lanyu (orchid island, where the Tao people live) belongs to Taiwan now, considering language and culture, the Tao people are closer to Ivatan people in Batanes islands in Philippine than other peoples in Taiwan.
As a branch of Austronesian people, the Tao people are good at building boat, and they use boats for fishing. Their wooden boat is not canoe. They combine different kinds of wood to build small wooden boat (tatara) for one or two people and large wooden boat (chinurikuran) for around ten people.

Keep rowing:

蘭嶼的大船文化,幾乎是整個達悟民族從生理生計到心理信仰與宇宙觀的集合體。

The tatara boat culture in Lanyu is the aggregation of physiology, psychology, economy, belief, and world view of the Tao people.

在現代經濟方式的衝擊,氏族漁團的青壯勞動力被台灣的資本市場吸納,老一輩長者無能為力負荷大船建造的一切所需, 只能看這舊船腐朽裂解,在每年呼喊飛魚的招魚儀典時,感嘆空盪的港灣而無大船的身影。

Because of the aggression of the modern economy, the young people in the families (in Lanyu) are absorbed by the capitalistic market in Taiwan. The elders cannot afford to build a big boat, so they can only watch these old boats decomposing. In the yearly flyfish ceremony, the elders are sad because they only have harbors but not boats.

2001年時,我們與村裡的族人,帶著從島上森林伐取的樹材,一起到台中的自然科學博物館,建造了一艘脫離傳統氏族漁團組織的十人大船。

In 2001, with some people in our community, we brought some wood logged from the forests in the island to the National museum of natural science in Taichung (Taiwan). We built a big boat for ten people, which is not for traditional fishing community-based usage.

當年我們詢問父親:”可以到台灣造大船嗎?makanyou(禁忌)怎麼辦?”父親也細詢了為何要去台灣造大船的用意……?”給台灣的人看,也讓他們了解,大船不只是美麗而已,而是還有我們的智慧與能力!”我們回答。沈思後的父親給了我們一個說法:”台灣又沒有我們的鬼(anito),你 們想那麼多做什麼?”之後,那一年我們順利的完成了一艘向台灣展示的文化大船……。就在完工的當時,緊接而來的是:「做好了船,怎麼不划呢?」於是,五年 後的今天,我們想與台灣的朋友分享一件事:船,不只是被展示的,更是可以航行的,我們將拜訪台灣……。

Before we built that one, we asked our fathers, ‘can we build a boat in Taiwan? How about the makanyou (taboo)?' Our fathers asked about our intention. ‘We want to show Taiwanese our boats and let them understand that our boats are not only beautiful but also full of our intelligence and capability.' After contemplation, our fathers said, ‘there is no anito (our ghosts) in Taiwan, why are you afraid?'
One year later, we finished that boat successfully. Then people asked us, ‘why not row it after building it?' As a result, five years after that, we want to share something with our friends in Taiwan, ‘our boats are not only for demonstration but also for navigation. We will visit Taiwan.'

Keep rowing:

船長1016 c m ,寬170 c m,高270 cm
我們的大船取名為: Ipanga na,1001跨越號。 (ipanga na是Tao語裡的名詞,有跨越、航行之意。)
ingana na表示移動,我們要到許多的地方去;而「1001」,只是因為我們的大船超過了10公尺長。

The length of the boat is 1016 cm, the width is 170 cm, and the height is 270 cm.
Our boat is named ‘Ipanaga na, 1001.' Ipanga na in Tao means crossing over and navigation. Ipanga na also means moving. We will go to many places.
‘1001′ is named because our boat is longer than 10 m.

Keep rowing:

由紀錄片工作者林建享與蘭嶼達悟族友人夏曼‧夫阿原召集一半蘭嶼族人、一半台灣人共同建造、歷時四個月的蘭嶼達悟族的「 1001跨越號」,是近百年來蘭嶼達悟族所打造尺寸最大的拼板舟。

Being a documentary filmmaker working in Lanyu, Chien-shieng Lin with his Tao friend Shaman Fuayuan called some Tao people and Taiwanese to build this boat together. It took four months, and it is the largest tatara boat the Tao people have built in the recent one hundred year.

They plan to row from Lanyu to Taitung, then to Taipei, and finally return to Taitung. The total length of the voyage is about 1438.6 km. They plan to finish it in 35 days. In average, they need to row 50-60 km per day. There are 12 people rowing at one time, and there are two teams of people for rotation.

Originally they planned to start on 6/12, but the plan was delayed because of the weather:

老人說,「六月蘭嶼的天氣啊,變幻莫測,好像很難捉摸;為什麼不選七月出發呢?七月的天氣,海面上像是倒了沙拉油那樣,選在那樣的日子裡出發不是比較安心嗎?」伴航船的船長周一宗帶著海圖和氣象圖來了。19日以前,天氣都不穩定。

The elders said, ‘the weather in June in Lanyu is capricious. Why don't you start in July? In July, the sea looks like having soybean oil on the surface. If you choose to depart in July, we are relieved, aren't we?' Later the captain of the ship that will go with us, I-Tsung Chou, brought the sea chart and the weather map, and he told us the weather would not be stable before 6/19.

They started off this June 20th, and now they arrived Taitung safely. Although they practiced several times before the voyage, it's still hard because they need to struggle with the Kuroshio current.

Keep rowing:

中間的時候,「真的很想拖呢(叫機動船幫忙拖行)」,不是因為洋流太強,是因為太陽太熱。 所有的人都沒有放棄。

In the middle of the rowing, ‘I really hoped that ship could drag us.' The thought was not due to the current but due to the sun. But no one gave up.

Their next project, after the funds are raised, will be rowing to Batan islands to meet the Ivatan people.

Voices from Ghana: It's Not All About the Energy Crisis; Stanbic Takes Over Ghana's ADB?; New Currency Arrives

Ghana might be going through an energy crisis, but, somehow, that has not deterred both expatriate and Ghanaian bloggers from making surprisingly positive comments about the country in which they live in.

We open this week’s reviews with two of such entries. The first is by a Ghanaian blogger Got Lights? who writes:

You gotta love Ghana. And after 3 weeks out of town in Liberia and Sierra Leone, you gotta love it more. In both these countries there are power outages so it's just like home. But here in Gh [Ghana] there is some semblance of scheduling even though residents in East Legon will beg to differ.

She maintains that “Ghana is changing so fast, it’s hard to keep up”, and cites this example:

I got to Shell to buy petrol after 3 weeks and the attendant asks : Super or V-Power? What is V-Power? I politely ask him: What is the difference? and he says : 1000 cedis. Well that surely tells me a lot. That V-Power fuel is within my price reach! As to what it does for my car, now that is another issue. Unleaded fuel vrs leaded fuel

The fast pace that she sees is attributed to the following:

dual carriage roads, streetlights, swept roads, collected trash and no groups of youth and men hanging around on the streets

Challenges and serious developmental problems notwithstanding, she admonishes the reader to remember that whenever Ghanaians feel like complaining:

let's keep in mind that although we are ages behind the developed world, we are also eons ahead our compatriots in the developing world

Emily, writing in her blog the Ghana Journal, writes a post that chronicles, albeit briefly, her 22-hourr stay in Togo’s capital city, Lome:

I've managed to avoid the trip, three hours away, to Lome, Togo, just across the border. Finally this week, I popped over there for an assignment, spending less than a day in a city that's a bit too much like Accra, but somehow a more run-down version

Her journey proved to be more epiphanous than expected, with the biggest being the power outages, which plagues Ghana, but in Togo, apparently, is a bit more haphazard and, well, unplanned:

Here's another thing: as much as we b*tch about the regular power outages here in Ghana, at least we know, for the most part, when they are coming. I checked into my hotel around 4 p.m. and flopped on my bed under the ceiling fan. Not five minutes later, the power cut out. It came back on around 9 p.m., just long enough for me to fall asleep under the fan, before cutting out again sometime later. It still wasn't back on by the time I checked out at 7:30 a.m.

She concedes, though, that one thing Lome has over Accra is:

a nice assortment of streetside restaurants with local food and beer, plastic tables and big fans to blow the sweat off ya.

Meanwhile, back in Accra, the fast-pace continues, what with the impending re-denomination of the Ghanaian cedi, which American blogger, Leanne in Ghana, writes about in her post, entitled “The End of the ‘Cedi Shuffle”:

We're gettin' new money! It was actually announced at the first of the year, but with the changeover happening at the end of next month, things are starting to pop! In addition to what's pictured above, there will also be one and five cedi notes. The currency is being ‘redenominated' on July 1 because, as I've mentioned before, you have to cart around buttloads of currency to pay for even small purchases.

It currently takes an excess of 9000 cedis to equal a dollar. If dinner for two costs the equivalent of 50 bucks, you have to have almost a half million cedis to pay it. If you are lucky enough to have scored ¢20,000 notes on your last trip to the bank, you still have a pile of bills too thick to put in your wallet if you expect to then fold said wallet in half.

Whilst this may no longer be any news to Ghanaians - both within and outside the country – what is interesting to note is the new website that the Bank of Ghana has set up which Leanne refers to:

You can read a lot about it (if you care) at this website, which also contains links to the audio stuff…(click on the Media and Press at the top for commercials and jingles).http://www.ghanacedi.gov.gh/

Still in Ghana, it was going to be difficult, given its proximity, for Ghanaians not to comment about the Nigeria elections. Obed Sarpong, blogging in his blog Sarpong Obed—Ready to Chew juxtaposes the French elections that saw the winning of Sarkozy as the new President to that of Nigeria, writing:

I don't know what is wrong with African leaders. I am a Ghanaian: as far as i know, we have a very good relationship with the Nigerian government. At our independence golden jubilee celebrations, president Obasanjo was the guest of honour and president Kufuor made a statement like there is a new wave of African leaders… It's a shame prez Obasanjo has betrayed that speech. He couldn't conduct a credible election. The opposition and local and foreign observers have called for a re-run of the elections. Granting an interview to the bbc which was aired yesterday, prez Obasanjo said the elections was flawed, but not so imperfect that it has to be re-run. Did you hear him.

Beyond the berating of Nigeria, he sums up:

With population of about 130 million people, only 6o million thereabout registered and about 26 million voted. Quite a scare. When the irregularities were reported and compared to that of France, most people in and out of Nigeria who in ideology sided with the government said Nigeria is far bigger than France. What a disgrace! What about nations like China and India. And if Nigeria is so big and large, how come the results were declared so soon in about 48 hours? The elections were clearly rigged! No doubt about it. What happened in Nigeria shows how outgoing African leaders elect their successors.

Meanwhile, Martin Egblewogbe of Ewomi, is more concerned about the security—or lack thereof—that was shown in April, when some students, protesting about the residential policy of university students shit-bombed the university halls of residence in Legon. Ewomi writes:

First, a few words about the s- bomb. We have to be thankful that it was not a fire bomb or some other unpleasant device. But wtf, that's no way to fight your cause. The students will lose whatever support they had from various sources if they resort to such abominations. The very thought of young Ghanaian students spending hours in planning, financing and executing such a shitty affair makes one wonder. The stuff, I presume, was carried in buckets. Enough of the stuff to knock out three large examination centres. Imagine the folks sneaking around in the dead of night with such terrible cargo.

He wonders:

So where the hell was the University Security Apparatus? Christ, one shudders to think what a really evil minded bunch could achieve.

Meanwhile the RegionsWatch Blog provides a perspective on the on-going changes in the Ghanaian banking industry, which has seen the take-over of the country’s only Agricultural Development Bank by South Africa’s Standard Bank, which operates as Stanbic in Ghana.

In RegionsWatch’s view, it is more a case of a battle between two regional blocs of SADC and ECOWAS, whereby the independent regional banking group of ECOBANK is going head-to-head with that of Standard Bank for the tag of “Pan-African Bank”. More perniciously, RegionsWatch believes it is a case of the ever-looming South African threat that is expressing itself in Ghana:

In my view, I see an interesting trend here–one of Stanbic, like South African big capital, choosing to lord it over Africa, and feeling, why not, West Africa's a good place. Once we get Ghana, we've got a springboard for the rest of West Africa. Not so fast, Stanbic! The South Africans appear not to understand not just West Africa, but its market. One thing that goes to compound this perception is an article in Friday's edition of the private Ghanaian paper The Observer, with the headline: Stanbic Offers $80m for ADB

The sub-heading speaks volumes: Workers Charge and Say “Kai!” ADB's Western Union
Inflows for 2006 Alone Was $400m

This, in fact, was reduced from $120m.The cheek of Stanbic! To think it could buy Ghana's only agricultural development bank for $80m, when Western Union's for ADB alone was clocking a good five times aaht amount speaks more about the South African chutzpah, or hubris, of feeling it can lord it over West Africa in general, and Ghana in particular.

Back to the news report from Metro news, I noticed that the following night, the station reported that the government insists it had not sold its shares in ADB, and was actually looking at an unsolicited proposal from Stanbic made last year.

It was confirmed in the state-owned Daily Graphic on Thursday, as the picture above illustrates.

I certainly hope that Bank of Ghana, and Ghanaians open their eyes to the looming threat of big capital–be it outside Africa, or on the continent itself, represented by a wolf in sheep's clothing–South Africa, always ready to please the West and its elite, yet less amenable to the interests of Black Africa.

Finally, Emmanuel, of Trials and Tribulations of a Freshly-Arrived Denizen provides an exclusive interview of morning show host Bernard Avle, who was back from Nairobi after receiving an award for his show, the CITI Breakfast Show, and for the private radio station, CITI FM itself. The station won the first-ever BBC Radio Awards’ “Best Interactive Talkshow of the Year”:

He cuts a contemplative and tall figure. Be-spectacled with some degree of seriousness etched on his face, you could be forgiven for thinking that the dynamic Bernard Avle, host of the CITI Breakfast Show is only recently a busy man. But he's not. He's been busy ever since he became the host of the young and private Accra-based radio station in late 2004.Recently from Nairobi, Kenya, where he accompanied the station's managing-director Samuel Attah-Mensah to receive an award for the “Best Interactive TalkShow of the Year”, I took the opportunity to ask him over to my workplace, whilst he was in the East Legon neighborhood for another interactive Friday show.

Emmanuel: In the West, citizen journalism and blogging is big vis-à-vis the media, with many debates raging on the threat– or lack thereof-of how Media is changing the face of journalism. Last August, the BBC reported that 61% of Nigerians had accessed the BBC website via their mobile phones ( **). Where do you see Ghanaian journalists going with New Media?
Avle: Its obviously a big opportunity which I do not think Ghanaian electronic media owners have fully opened up to. It has more to do with where media owners want to invest in. Having said that, the Ghanaian journalist has a big opportunity to take advantage of these technologies to learn from across the globe.

Morocco: The week in photosPhotos post

With the heat of summer finally setting in, the Anglophone Moroccan bloggers are traveling in full force, judging by the number of photos posted this week. Therefore, this week we'll take a stroll through Morocco in pictures.

An interesting new phenomenon, which Braveheart-does-the-Maghreb reports on, is the introduction of the sport of curling to Morocco (but only at Rabat's enormous Mega Mall):

Curling in Morocco

On this subject, the blogger says, “I still can’t quite get over this.”

Moroccan Maryam of My Marrakesh shares photos of a special little hotel whose style she endearingly refers to as haute hodgepodge:

Soundouss Dining Room

We move from the delights of Morocco's capital, Rabat, to somewhere in the Moroccan countryside, where Peace Corps Volunteer and blogger Samuel Gunter of Life Called shares photos of a local well:

img_1529.jpg

Blogger Four Continents shares photos of a sojourn to Marrakesh, one of Morocco's most famous cities - made so particularly by Djemaa al Fna, where this photo was taken:

Hijabin by Four Continents

The blogger says:

Having adopted Fes as my home base, I expected to dismiss touristy Marrakech as a Disney-fied sellout, check it off my “been there, done that” list and return to my (obviously superior) town. Thankfully, the reality was more fun than that - Marrakech has made its concessions to the visitors but it's still very Moroccan also, and I enjoyed spending two days lost in its medina - and could have stayed longer.

Our last stop on the tour is the Cascades d'Ouzoud, not too far from Marrakesh, brought to us by Rachel of Musings from Morocco, who also wrote the poem accompanying the photos.

Cascades from Below by Rachel Beach

On my way from here to there…
I stopped for a bit of fresh mountain air
Walked to a precipice and away fell the earth …
And water rushed too and with it my breath

For until your feet are standing on edge
No one can fathom what awaits you ahead
Irrigation trench streams turn into falls
Clamorous, glamorous, uproarious and tall

And the mouth of the world opens wide
Before your toes into a great paradise
And your eyes follow waterfall fall fall
As it rushes from pool to spill into pool

Little bridges and people, like an imaginary
Place stretch across rivulets and up scary
Hills where stairs meander through olive tree
Boughs covering hillside and oft a snatch of path appears

Amidst all the ruckus of splashing and tumbling
My mind drew away to a quiet still rumbling
I devoured my book and scribbled all day
Thoughts pouring through me on pages to stay

Little blue and green rafts cobbled
Together with rusted barrel and rotten
Wood, offering tours to glide through
The pools to a waterfall's frothy spew

And then I was sitting, having some lunch
When who do you think I found all hunched
And clambering up the mud walls … but barbary apes
My bread, their little paws snatched and made great escape

ducksinarow.JPG