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Damascus: The Destruction of The Old City

Yazan Badran · 17:28

lingua → bn · mk · sq · fr · es · pt · jp · zht · zhs

Damascus prides itself on being the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The history of Damascus goes back well into 8000 BC. In every corner of its ancient alleys there's a taste of every historical era there was to be found. The city that had withstood everything from earthquakes to invasions for nearly 10 millennia, is now crumbling under the threat of… “Modernism“!

Sasa from the Syria News Wire, compiled a series of posts about the situation of the old city of Damascus, and the efforts taking place for the protection and conservation of the city.

Part one of the series deals with last year's plan to tear down the ancient neighborhood of Al-Amara in order to widen the roads outside the walls of the old city. The plan caused an outrage among Syrians, and protests were organized everywhere until they were quietly dropped, for now.

Shopkeepers were furious at the plans, a Facebook and Blogger campaign was launched. That led to a petition. And eventually journalists got wind of the proposals and it made the international news. Then the bombshell - just months before Damascus began its year as Arab Capital of Culture, UNESCO threatened to withdraw Damascus's World Heritage Site status unless more is done to protect the Old City.

Bab al-Faradis, al-Amara, Damascus

The second part is dedicated to the conservation works down in Medhat Pasha street (Street Called Straight), the longest and one of the oldest roads in old Damascus. Sasa aknowledges the importance of the this project as the street has been in shackles for a long time, but laments the ill-planning and the indiscriminate replacement of culturally important parts of the ancient market, like the old Ottoman-time roof, that has a special significance which he explains:

The tin roofs over Medhat Pasha and Souq Al-Hamidiyeh date from the Ottoman refurbishment of the main Souqs. During the insurgency against the French occupation, they were punctured by gunfire. And they've remained that way for almost one hundred years. The shafts of sunlight which pierce into the dark souqs are blindingly beautiful, and a daily reminder of Syria's struggle for independence.
But the centuries-old black Medhat Pasha roof, which was decorated by history, has been replaced by a new white one.

Medhat Pasha Str., Damascus
Medhat Pasha Street (Street Called Straight), with its ancient tin roof.

Part three, takes us on an open ended ride into the ancient quarter of Saroujah, a neighborhood that had witnessed some destruction in the past to make space for character-less apartment blocks. The plans to bulldoze the rest of the neighborhood were put on hold, and the decision to go through with them or not is to be taken by the end of this year, says Sasa:

But recently, the organisation which looks after the Old City - and works well with the European Union to do it - has taken over responsibility for Saroujah. So is a change in Saroujah's fortunes in store?
In the past few months, they have re-paved part of the area (with far less inconvenience than in Medhat Pasha).
So does this mean destruction is no longer on the cards?
Documents released by the Old City modernisation authorities show that they are going to make a decision on the future of Saroujah by the end of this year.

Saroujah, Damascus
Sarouja, Damascus

As the grip of the new corporate culture tightens around the old city, it seems the only way to saving it are the efforts of the civil society, and it has succeeded in reverting the disastrous plans in al-Amara, so there might still be hope at the end of the tunnel.

Photos courtesy of Sasa.

3 comments · »»

Japan: About40, and what next?

Chris Salzberg · 14:31

lingua → zht · zhs

Changing times in Japan are opening the door for a new style of television. About40 (Japanese site), aired on Tokyo network TBS for the first time on April 11th, has done something novel for a Japanese TV drama: aim at the age bracket of 35 to 45 year old women, and hit it big [ja]. The new drama, which registered an average viewer rating of 15.7% with its first episode, targets the late-thirties demographic of single childless Japanese women who entered the work force during the 80s bubble, captured in the newly-coined term “arafo” (アラフォー). While this first wave of 30-something “makeinu” have featured as the regular butt of jokes in the media, their rising numbers are turning the tables, with one of four women ~~above 30 now single~~ remaining single after turning 30.

Advertisement for About40

About40 features actress Amami Yūki/橋部敦子 in the role of 39-year-old psychiatrist Ogata Satoko/緒方聡子 [ja], highly successful, single, and touchy about her age [ja]. Her friends include 35-year-old magazine editor Morimura Nao/森村奈央 [ja] (played by Otsuka Nene/大塚寧々 [ja]), who claims she will not marry, Okumura Natsumi/岡村恵太朗 [ja] (played by Fujiki Naohito/藤木直人), a 33-year-old male psychiatrist who has just joined the hospital where Satoko works, and housewife Takuchi Mizue/竹内瑞恵 (played by Matsushita Yuki/松下由樹). The show is produced by screenwriter Hashibe Atsuko/橋部敦子.

Around40 starring Amami Yūki

Blogger sugarvine82, who is herself single, reflects on the first couple episodes of the new show:

２週分見終わって、思った。「確かに身につまされる」
もちろん身近にあんなに綺麗な女医さんもいないし、セレブな（私この”セレブ”）って言葉大キライですが）
友人もいないけど、でもうちのダンナさまがその時言った台詞
「４０って折り返し地点やもんなあ。」
そう！そうなんだよな。なんとなく折り返し地点に近付いてるのかな、でも
まだまだ自分は若いと思っていたのにな、という複雑な気持ち。
今までは突っ走ってきたけど、ちょっと一息つけて「これでよかったのかな？」なんて
ふと思ってしまう気持ち。誰にでもあるんだろうな。
今子育てしている友人はまだ子供も小さいからそんな風に思うこともないのかも
しれないけれど。

After seeing two weeks [of the show], I thought: “This really hit close to home.”
Of course I don't have such beautiful women doctors like that in my immediate circle,
and I don't have any celebrity friends either (I really hate that word “celebrity” [see translator's note below]), but
the remark that my husband made when he saw it, that:
“40 years, I guess that's the halfway mark, right?”
Right! Exactly. I guess I am approaching the halfway mark,
although I felt that I'm still young — it was that kind of complex sensation.
I've been racing along up to now, but then just to suddenly take a pause and think:
“Have I been doing the right thing?” — that was the feeling. I guess everybody gets [that feeling].
Although I guess my friends who have kids right now don't think about this yet, because the kids are still young.

Note: “celebrity” in Japanese has a slightly different meaning from the English word, signifying someone who lives a rich and extravagant lifestyle.

Blogger poncoco on the other hand, a housewife, related more to the character of Matsuhita Yuki:

天海祐希は独身の医者の役なので私の今の人生には当てはまる事がないのですが
松下由樹の役どころは専業主婦。子育てにも一段落し、周りを見ると同じ世代の人達が
何かを始めている。
自分は？．．．と焦り出すわけですよ。
私もこの数年、同じような事を考えていました。
「このまま主婦で終わるのか？」「なにか出来る事は？」「社会から取り残されていないか？」
そして２年半前からパートを始めました。それでも何か足りなくて半年前からは雑貨屋も・・・
２０代から30代になる時には感じる事のなかったこの焦りや不安な気持ち、
アラフォーになると強く感じるのは何故なんでしょうねぇ～。

Amami Yuki plays a single doctor, so there is nothing that applies to my life currently,
Matsushita Yuki on the other hand plays the part of a housewife. She has settled down and is raising children,
and when she looks around herself at the friends of her generation, they are starting something new.
And what about me?… [she thinks this and] gets impatient.
I've also been thinking the same thing these past several years.
“Will it end here just like this, as a housewife?” “Is there something I can do?” “Have I been left behind by society?”
Then as of two years ago I started working part-time. That wasn't enough, so from a half-year ago I started also [working in a] general store…
This feeling of impatience and of anxiety that I never had when I went from my twenties into my thirties,
I wonder why I sense this so strongly as I become an “arafo”.

Not all bloggers were quite so moved by the show. Blogger Katsuragi Aoi (桂木碧) questioned points about the show's plot:

でも　なぜ年上の男性ばっかり紹介するんでしょう
なんだか　見ていて納得できません
しかも　相談員のひとも　コレ以上条件にあった方はあなたにはいません
とか　はっきり言っているし・・・・・

But I wonder, why do they only introduce guys who are older than her?
Somehow I see that and I'm not satisfied.
And on top of that, the counseling staff tell her that she won't get anybody with better conditions than this
They say it straight out like that…

Blogger yomuchan2006, meanwhile, couldn't relate to the idea of “arafo” at all:

「Around４０」はちょっと見たけど、つまらなかったのでパスしました。
今後は見ないだろうと思います。やはり先週の１話目で、どうにも興味を
持てなかったということかも・・・。
４０前後の女性に感情移入できないし、「アラフォー」なんて新語を
流行らそうとしているあたりにも、なんか共感できないので・・・。

I saw a bit of “About 40″, but it was boring so I passed on it.
I probably won't watch it again in the future. Last week was of course the first episode,
and maybe it was just that I couldn't get interested in it…
I can't empathize with 40-year-old women, and also just the fact that they seem to be trying to make this word “arafo” a new fad, I can't really relate…

3 comments · »»

Korea: Invincible Samsung Kingdom

Hyejin Kim · 14:12

Through the three-month investigation into alleged corruption at Samsung, Samsung snuck out of punishment again. Even though the special investigation team was established, and hidden bank accounts and illegal activities were found, it seems that it was not enough for categorizing it as a criminal act.

Manhouse shows what the end of this scandal means.

삼성특검결론은 기업하기 좋은 나라?

특검은 무려 4조 5000억에 달하는 돈을 비자금이 아닌 이건희 회장의 개인돈이라고 결론내렸다. 우스운 것은 범죄수사를 하면서 피의자측, 즉 범죄를 저지른 것으로 의심받는 측의 주장을 대부분 그대로 받아들였다는 것이다. 경찰과 검찰이 살인 용의자를 심문하면서 용의자의 말을 그대로 받아들인 것과 다를 것이 없다. 그래 좋다. 스스로 수사미진을 시인하는 무능력 함을 드러냈음에도 불구하고, 특검은 이회장과 임직원들이 에버랜드의 전환사채발행과 삼성 SDS의 신주인수권부사채 발행을 통해 회사에 손해를 끼쳤다는 사실을 밝히는 성과를 내기도 했다. 이건희 회장이 1194개에 이르는 차명 계좌를 이용해 4조 5000억이라는 막대한 재산을 숨겨두고 있었다는 것을 알아낸 것도 수사의 결실이라면 결실이다. 그 큰돈을 자신이 오너로 있는 회사의 임직원들 이름을 빌려 관리하고 여기에 다른 간부들이 개입한 것은 조직적 범죄다. 이회장은 이러한 수법으로 1000억이 넘는 세금을 포탈했고 5000억이 넘는 증여세도 내지 않았다.

‘오늘 공소제기하는 범죄사실은 배임행위로 인한 이득액이나 포탈한 세액이 모두 천문학적인 거액으로, 법정형이 무거운 중죄에 해당한다.’ 특검이 말한대로다. 그런데 아무도 구속기소는 하지 않았다. 핵심 임원들을 구속하면 기업경영에 엄청난 공백과 차질을 빚어 국익에 악영향을 끼칠 것이라는 것이 한 이유다. 중범죄자를 엄단하지 않는 것이 어떻게 국익에 보탬이 된단말인가? 범죄를 저지르려면 국익과 연관될 만큼 크게 저지르라고 국민에게 가르치려는 모양이다.[…]

특검은 이 많은 돈을 국가의 이익을 위해서 몰래 숨겨뒀다고 생각하는 모양이다. 만약 그렇다면 이돈이 미술품을 사는 것 외에 어떠한 용도로 쓰였으며, 그것이 어떻게 국익에 보탬이 됐는지 설명해야만 한다. 그러나 특검은 이 부분에 대해서는 아무런 설명도 하지 않았다. 1194개의 차명계좌가 있다는 것을 알아냈음에도 불구하고 비자금을 전혀 찾지 못한 특검은 정관계 로비의혹에 대해서는 무혐의 처분을 내렸다. 계좌추적은 제대로 해 보지도 않았다. 수사가 미진한 부분에 대해서는 검찰에 넘겨 더 철저한 수사를 잘 할 수 있음에도 불구하고 수사를 종결시키기까지 했다.

조준웅 특검은 ‘이번 수사를 계기로 삼성이 환부를 털어내고 명실상부한 초일류 글로벌 기업으로 거듭 태어나기를 바란다.’고 말했다. 검사가 수사를 마친 후 중범죄자에게 하는 이야기가 아니라 수술을 마친 의사가 환자에게 덕담을 하고 있는 것만 같다.

오늘, 4월 18일자, 조선일보 1면에서는 ‘이건희 회장 1128억 조세포탈’기사와 함께 ‘한국은 가장 기업친화적 나라가 될 것’이라는 이명박 대통령의 뉴욕 연설기사와 사진이 함께 실렸다. 굳이 이명박 대통령이 먼 미국까지 가서 말하지 않아도 됐을텐데 쓸데없는 수고를 하고 있는 것 같다. 세계 어느나라 사람들이라도 이번 수사 결과를 보면, 우리나라가 얼마나 기업친화적인 나라인가를 알 수 있을텐데 말이다.

The conclusion of the special investigation into Samsung means the country is good to have business?

The special investigation concluded that 4 trillion 500 billion won is not a slush fund, but Lee Kon Hee’s individual money. The funny thing is that while they investigate the crime, the investigation team rather believed the suspect. It is like while the police and investigation investigate him (or her), they believed what that suspect said. Ok, it’s fine. Anyway even though they proved themselves to be incapable investigators, the special investigation showed that Lee resulted into the damage of the company through issuing convertible bonds of Everyland and subscription right bonds of Samsung SDS. Using 1,194 false-name accounts, he covered 4 trillion 500 billion won. That was also an important fruit that the investigation found. He took care of the money borrowing other employees’ names and other high positioned employees also participated. It is organized crime. With these kinds of methods, he evaded more than 100 billion won tax and didn’t pay the donation tax, 500 billion won.

‘The crime that we prosecute today is an act in violation of their duty. The benefit that they got is tremendously abundant and it is regarded as a serious offense.’ What the special investigation team said is right. But nobody will be confined. The reason why is if they restrain those related people, the business will be deadlocked and it will damage the national interest. How does releasing those criminals keep the national interest? It seems that they teach if you would like to commit the crime, it will be fine as long as it is related to the national interest. […]

The special investigation team seems to think that Samsung hid this much money for the national interest. If it is true, they should explain how it is helpful for the national interest, including buying art works.

But the special investigation team didn’t explain anything about this part. Even though they knew there were 1194 false-name accounts, they couldn’t find any secret funds and cleared the lobbying politicians. They even didn’t track the account numbers. Even though they could convey the authority to the prosecution for more detailed investigations, they completed the investigation.

The special investigator, Cho joon-ung said, ‘From this moment after the investigation, I hope that Samsung got over the diseased part and is reborn as the tip-top global enterprise.’ It is not what investigators say to the serious criminal after the investigation, but the well-wishing remarks doctors make to patients.

Today, on the 18th of April, the Chosun Newspaper showed two articles, ‘Lee Kwon Hee evaded tax, 112.9 bilion won’ and ‘Korea will be the best country for being friendly to enterprises’ with the speech of President Lee Myung Bak in New York and the photo. It seems that Lee Myung Bak put so much effort to go to such a distant place and to talk about our intention. Any people all over the world must have already know how friendly country is to enterprises after the result of this investigation.

Not a few netizens are disappointed with this result.

역시 삼성은 무너지지 않는다. 혹시나 하는 기대감을 가졌지만, 역시나 하는 결과는 확실하게 다시한번 이 사회가 돌아가는 순리를 나에게 각인 시켜 줬다. 엊그제였나 [`BBK 의혹' 김경준 징역 10년ㆍ벌금 150억(2보)]란 기사를 보고 역시 권력을 가지고 있으면 어떤 개ㅈㄹ을 해도 떵떵 거리며 잘 살 수 있고… 그렇지 못하고 권력에서 밀려나면, 바로 바보, 등신 되는 걸 느꼈는데… 오늘 사회는 내가 그걸 제대로 못 느꼈을까봐 다시한번 확인 시켜주고 재차 강조시켜 주고 있다.

이 세상 살면서 무엇이 진실인지 알지 못하고 헷깔리는 경우가 대부분인데..'유전무죄 무전유죄' 그리고 ‘유권무죄 무권유죄'라는 말 하나만큼은 확실히 옳은 말임을 알게 되었다.그래도 만에하나 라는 실날같은 희망을 가지고 있었던 나는 바보가 되었다.바보로 이 세상을 살아가는 것도 나쁘지는 않아 보인다.[…] 이젠 나도 그만 할께…

Without any doubt, Samsung didn’t fall down. I had a slight hope, but the result as expected taught me how this society works. Yesterday, I read an article about ‘Kim Kyung Joon received a 10 year prison sentence and has to pay 15 billion won for the fine under the BBK suspicion.’I learned again if you have the authority, you can live whatever you want to live. But if you don’t or are pushed away from the authority, you will end up with being screwed up. Now, this society might have thought I haven’t learned enough and showed it again.

Living in this world, I have been confused which one is true or not… Now I know that ‘Yujeonmoojoi Moojeonyujoi(having money not guilty-not having money guilty’and’Yugwonmoojoi Moogwonyujoi(having authority not guilty-not having authority guilty’ are absolutely true. Having a slight hope, I was a fool. Living as a fool might not be so bad.[…] I’m gonna give up as well.

Is it like an attempt to hit a rock with an egg?

삼성 특검이 무혐의 판결이 났다.사실 별 기대 안했다. 아니 이런 결과가 날줄 알았다. 특검 자체가 MB특검처럼 성의가 없어 보였으며, 전시용, 여론용 수색이 전부였기 때문이다.이러한 결과는 당연하듯 싶다.방송PD들이 짚어낸것을 특검 수사대는 전혀 짚어내지 못했으며, 짚어내도 한발 늦은 움직임을 보여주는데 그 어떤 좋은 결과가 나올리 있겠는가? […]

삼성이 무죄라는데 격한 반응을 보일 사람이 과연 몇일까?…그 누구도 삼성이 무죄라고 해서 피해볼 사람–일반 국민들–은 아무도 없다..

The special investigation into Samsung was concluded as not guilty. Frankly, I didn’t expect so much. I assumed that the result would be like this. The special investigation itself was as insincere as the special investigation into Lee Myung Bak. The search was just for covering public opinions and for showing in public. The result would not be unexpected. Special investigators couldn’t even find out what broadcasting producers pointed out. Even though they found out, their movement was way too late. Then, how can we get a good result? […]

Who will be aggressively against the innocence of Samsung? The result is not going to give any damage—especially common people.

Or, will there be more people against buying Samsung products?

[…]삼성은 거대기업이다.노조가 있건 없건 좋은 기업 이미지로서 삼성맨이라는 자부심까지 있는 기업이지만 자신들의 이익을 위해 더 많은 지식을 가진 강자의 입장에서 약자를 배려해주는 것이 아니라 강자로서 약자의 약한 부분을 이용해 수익을 내려하고 있다는 점이 내가 ‘안티삼성'이 되게 만든 계기가 되었다. 검색도 네이버는 잘 사용하지도 않는다.마지막에 혹시나 해서 검색을 한다고나 할까.되도록이면 삼성제품은 사용하지 않으려고 노력한다.

나에게도 삼성제품이 없을 수가 없다. 조립했지만 램 3개중 2개가 삼성 것이고, 하드 3개중 1개가 삼성것이고,경품으로 받은 모니터가 삼성것이고,가전제품중 가장 비싼 LCD TV(결혼 혼수로 마누라가 사온 것이라 몰랐다) 역시 삼성이고 장인어른에게도 벽거리형으로 선물을 드린것도 삼성 TV (세일이라 20만원싸게 2대한정 특가로 팔아서 혹했다) 이다. 삼성을 싫어하게 되면서 좋아진 것은 지독한 국산 애호가였던 내가 소니나 도시바 등 외국 제품을 조금씩 쓰게 만들었고 이것은 어쩌면 속좁은 애국심에 질나뻐도 국산을 사용하던 내게 전세계 제품을 두루 쓰게 만들어준 고마운 일이기도 하다.[…] 나는 비록 ‘안티삼성' 이지만 ‘삼성' 이라는 그래도 우리나라 대표기업은 외국에서도 존경받을 수 있는 그런 기업이 되기를 바랬다.[…]

Samsung is a conglomerate. No matter they have a labor union or not, they have a good image as an enterprise. The employees are proud of their company. But for their own benefits, as the strong they make use of the weak parts of the weak, not considering the weak as the strong. That’s why I became an ‘anti-Samsung.’ I even don’t use the portal site, Naver. I try not to use Samsung products as much as possible, either.

Of course, it is impossible not to have Samsung products. Even though I fabricated the computer, 2 of 3 rams are from Samsung and one of three hardware is from Samsung. The computer screen I got as an award is also from Samsung. The most expensive home appliance LCD TV (my wife bought it for marriage expenses) is also from Samsung. I bought a Samsung TV for my father-in-law (because of 200,000 won discount for two). The benefit I got through the hatred toward Samsung was the change of my characteristic from the extremely domestic product buyer to the international product buyer, such as Sony and Toshiba. I appreciate it because my biased patriotism could be changed.[…] Even though I’m the ‘anti-Samsung,’ I hoped that Samsung can be a respectable enterprise abroad as the representative of Korea.[…]

Look at this brave guy in front of a big Samsung screen in Time Square, New York.

1 comment · »»

Uganda: Government refuses passport to transgender woman

Rebekah Heacock · 11:06

lingua → es

A post by Gay in Uganda last week reveals the discrimination the country's lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and intersex (LGBTI) population faces when applying for travel documents:

Ugandans know a guy called Brenda. A gal, because Brenda is a trans person. Meaning that biologically the birth was to a male baby, but growing up Brenda was more confortable in the female role, and ultimately embraced the female gender.

…

Recently, Brenda needed travel documents. They were denied. Reason, they don’t give them to ‘people who have changed themselves’. Julie Victor Mukasa (Note: a Ugandan lesbian activist) tells of the time that she had to prove that she was biologically female at the RDC’s office in Kampala, when she went to get passport forms filled. Use your imagination how she proved that.

Our constitution states that it is a citizens right to get a passport. Brenda is apparently not included in that definition of a citizen. But that is besides the point. Fact is, those of us who are in LGBTI activism, are suddenly finding problems getting travel documents.

…

Very likely I may have problems traveling next time that I need to do so. My passport may light up or something. Happened in Rwanda last month. Apparently, LGBTI activists need permission to leave the country!

Magintu, denied a passport renewal for entirely different reasons, vents:

I have been trying to get my passport renewed for three weeks now, to no avail. Over 8 years ago when they gave me my first one, I did not even show face in the passport office. And I got it two days later.

Now I want to renew my passport and Uganda is giving me shit about it. You would think they would recognise game and offer me the damn passport before I marry wisely and blow this joint. Or maybe they would nitpick about the fact that I was not born here; but no, they are more concerned about the fact that I have an occupation. Yes, I kid you not: they say that on my first passport I am listed as a student. Now in this application, I say I have a job. And they cannot understand how this can be. Depsite the fact that 8 years have passed between issuance of said first passport and request for a renewal, they still expect me to be a student.

Meanwhile, although Uganda's New Vision boasts several features committed to helping its readers find love, its focus seems to have switched from romance to finance. The View from Kololo's Hannah laments:

Mystery Date: once a portrait of young dreamers looking for love, once filled with anticipation and over-dramatized emotions, now a business opportunity, now filled with indifference.

…

Take, for example, Julius and Stella, from the March 22 issue. Julius is a videographer; Stella an artiste. Stella has a boyfriend; Julius is married. Stella’s summary amounted to this: “When I told him I was an artiste, he was happy because he is a promoter. He said we could make good money since he knows the trade well.” Julius said, “We exchanged greetings and I realized she was familiar. I had seen her on stage, singing. She said she liked me and I was happy to meet her because, as a promoter, I can benefit from her talent.”

The trend is evident in personal ads as well, Glenna at Uganda's Scarlett Lion reports:

I'm working on a story related to personal adverts in the Ugandan daily newspapers. More details on the story later, but I thought I would share a few highlights I've found perusing “Meeting Point” in the New Vision.

I've removed the contact information from the ads, but should you want one of these winners, just leave me a comment and I'll get it to you.

UNIVERSITY drop out, 29, wants financially stable, caring, lady.

I know that most financially stable, caring ladies want someone whose only description of themselves is related to the fact that they're a University drop out.

DAN, 18 wants a sugar mummy.

Dan, where have you been all of my life??

Several other bloggers also have their minds on money. Nathan of Muzungu! Muzungu! and Chris of Caked in Red Clay both posted this month about continuing to stockpile coins and small bills after leaving Uganda. Chris notes:

I realized, while my weighed-down pockets had me swaggering down the street like John Wayne on his way to a western dust-up, that my Uganda approach to collecting small change is not as effective here in the UK.

In Uganda, small change is worth its weight in gold. It means you can pay a boda-boda or matatu taxi exact change, you can pay for your lunch without feeling bad about the server having to canvas the area for change and you can pay for phone air time without any hassles. The two largest denominations, the 20,000 shilling (about $11) and 50,000 shilling (just under $30) notes, are generally major hassles to break, since they are so much more than most day-to-day expenses. So when a group is out for dinner and all chipping in on the bill, any change and small bills tossed in are highly coveted by all others who want to break their bills.

…

The abundance of coins is mixed with a different economy, where things are of course more expensive so more money is coming and going from your pocket. In one coffee shop I didn’t have the right change for a 1.25 pound cup of tea and apologized profusely as I gave him a 10 pound note, apologizing for him having to break such a big note.

He laughed.

I was reminded, yet again, that I was not in Uganda any more.

For The-xposer's Kisiki, finding correct change presents more than a reminder of cultural differences: it is an obstacle to entrepreneurship. He explains:

A few minutes before writing this piece, I was in Wandegeya on my way to town, and need for airtime arose. I went to an airtime stand, and order for 5,000 top up. A man in his late 40’s handed back my 20,000 note because he had no ‘chengi’ (change).

I moved to a next stand that was managed by an Asian, and I flashed my 20,000. The attendant took the note, handed me the airtime, and asked me to wait as he sought me ‘chengi’ from the business neighbours. Within two minutes, I was done and I walked away.

…

In doing a random survey, if both sellers have ten customers loaded big notes within 15 minutes, the earlier seller would have nothing. The second seller would have benefited from customers. Dominance of business mentality of the second seller is what entrepreneurs in Uganda should apply for their businesses realise advancement.

Sometime back, Bank of Uganda ordered the banks not to chase people who seek for change from banks. Today, some banks sell ‘chengi’, even in the Taxi Parks ‘chengi’ vending booms, but 10% off the money need change is quite high.

It will take a long while for Uganda business men and women to notice how much they lose by chase a customer because of ‘chengi.’

1 comment · »»

Sudan's Looming War

SudaneseDrima · 11:01

lingua → mg · es

Sudan's Comprehensive Peace Agreement may possibly collapse if the bad pile up of misfortunes continues, but before we go into that, let's proceed with the good news first.

Drima is ecstatic about a new book by the Sudanese Muslim scholar Abdullahi An-Na'im whom Irshad Manji hosted as a guest recently at her latest initiative, the Moral Courage Project. An-Na'im's book is called “Islam and the Secular State” and here's what Drima had to say:

… from what I’ve read so far I know it will be super juicy.

These are some of the ideas Abdullahi presents in it:

* “I do believe that it is possible, indeed necessary, to reinterpret Islamic sources in order to affirm and protect freedom of religion and belief. This is my position as a Muslim, speaking from an Islamic perspective, and not simply because freedom of religion and belief is a universal human rights norm…”

* “The possibility of belief in anything logically requires choice in the matter, as one cannot believe in anything without the freedom and ability to disbelieve it.”

I don’t know about you but this certainly excites me - a book full of concrete Islamic arguments challenging the current Islamist status-quo of the Muslim world.

Amjad, a Sudanese student in Texas is impressed by the strict enforcement of rules on his university campus:

Our university police department is very strict regarding the speed limit on campus and parking at places you are not permitted to park at.

… I saw this car in front of my dorm with a locked wheel and a notice from the police department stuck in the window warning the owner of the car NOT to attempt to move his car

… Now this is really harsh but still great.

He's also amused by vending machines selling iPods.

On a totally random note, Zoulcolm X posted pictures of a Nubian pyramid in Northern Sudan and the burial place of a famous Sudanese Muslim religious leader. He seems to imply a relationship between the two photos:

Can you see?

Pyramids of The Royal City of Meroe (North Sudan) - Period: “Zaman lil deen” (too freakin old)

“Maqam” of Shikh Kabashy (Shrine) - A Sudanese Sufi Sheikh

what do you see?

And now for the bad news and worried sentiments.

Sudanese Returnee explains the dangerous situation eloquently:

Abyei, that oil rich region in the North-South border, is arguably one of the most sticky issues that threatens the CPA and could possibly draw the country back to the cycles of war!

Today, Northern troops entered Abyei after the NCP expressed their objection to the appointment of an SPLM Administrator for Abyei.

… Recently, SPLA soldiers were reportedly attacked by heavily armed Misseriya gunmen and fingers are being pointed at the NCP in Khartoum for arming them. Now the northern army is building up in Abyei and who knows what will happen tomorrow!

In case you're wondering, the Misseriya are a nomadic tribe regarded as ‘Arabs' by Southern Sudanese. As for the potentially deadly situation, Kizzie has an idea:

Dear government of Sudan and SPLM,

If you are planning to start another bloody civil war, evacuate a few villages and kill each other there.

Meanwhile John Akec isn't happy over Southern Sudan's seeming trend towards what he refers to as ‘assassination politics':

A well known South Sudanese secondary school teacher from Greater Bhar El Ghazal by name Mathon Mathon often said under Abakr Tree (The Wau's answer for London's Trafalgar Square):

“When a war breaks out in a county, it is not the earth that gets destroyed but people's morals.” In the South Sudan's war against the North, they did.

… Now, how far would you expect our morals to sink. All that because of our lust for power and feeling of extreme insecurity once in power. And a manner akin to King David of old, many of our leaders commit the sin and then murder to cover it up. Assassination is a virus once it infects, it spread like a wild fire and. Once started, it is hard to be stopped.

We now end this round up with another lovely short poem by Ras Babi:

she keeps her eyes down and whispers to me:
ras babi…
ras babi…
do you see this dressed in green and red man?
I feel her shaking from the in
I hold her hand in mine
she explodes crying
and crying
This man raped me with others
he killed my child
cut the head of my tent
that man is a devil son
do not buy their news
do something
tell the world

2 comments · »»

Burkina Faso: Vegetarians need not apply

John Liebhardt · 10:32

First, the news. In late March, Burkina Faso’s Prime Minister fired the long-serving minister of agriculture, and one-time right-hand of the country’s President Blaise Compoare, leading to a whole round of speculation and political second-guessing. Staying with Compaore, rumors have begun to swirl that the man who has spent more than 20 years as Burkina Faso’s president is sick – and, some say, journalists have been warned they will be punished for making continued reports on his health. Repercussions continue regarding what people feel is the government’s poor handling of price increases that have affected the country since the beginning of the year. On April 8, public and private sectors organized a general strike, which Burkina Mom reported was nothing much more than a quiet day (at least in Ouagadougou).

As much as Ouagalais love political intrigue, most people are much more preoccupied with the power cuts that have afflicted the city for the past five weeks or so. First, a galet poussoir, which translates as a roller tapet, failed at one of the city’s main power stations, forcing Sonabel, the local power company, to schedule rolling blackouts throughout the city every day for more than a week until someone was sent to France to pick it up a new piece.

That’s not all. March begins the hot season throughout West Africa, forcing people to use more electricity running fans, air conditioners, refrigerators, etc. The power company found that Ouagadougou’s burgeoning urban population has finally begun to outstrip the city’s once regular power supply. Pressure is now so great on the power grid that Sonabel has scheduled rolling blackouts through 2009, leaving people unsure if their power will be on when they return from work.

From a bloggers perspective, let’s check in with Burkina Mom:

Once again, I blog to you from a cybercafé in (way too) sunny downtown Ouagadougou. The power cut out in our neighbourhood at about 7am this morning and who knows when it will be back on… My technique is to spend the maximum amount of time out running errands in cool places like banks and supermarkets. My car (repaired now!) is also a nice place to be, as the air-con works really well. Nothing else does, mind you, but the air-con is fine.

I am just hoping that we're not headed for a long, hot, electricity-less wekend.
Curse you, Sonabel!

Peace Corps volunteers are always fond of bragging how tough they are, reminding the rest of us they live in villages that suffer blackouts whenever the sun goes down. Watch out, however, when these people congregate in large numbers in a city.

A post from Jill in Jill and Marcus in Burkina Faso:

To throw a good PCV party you need:
-several cases of beer
-so that you can get the courage to slaughter an animal
-so that you can have meat.

That's it. We're currently in the middle of an Animal Slaughtering Cold War. PCVs try to outdo each other with bigger, squealier, bloodier slaughters. Chickens, turkeys, pigs, and sheep have all been victims of PCVs' blood lust. And there's talk of slaughtering a cow. After that it'll be a slippery slope until slaughtering camels and elephants becomes the norm. And if that's not bad enough, it's also become standard to video the slaughter and even post it on the internet. Vegetarians need not apply.

For those who can’t make it into town, the hair-dryer-like heat that is currently slow cooking the region makes it a good time to hunker down at home and catch up on domestic projects, like building more shade for your house. For Clay’s most recent project, we’ll go to Notes From Burkina Faso:

This weekend I'm building a hangar to give my courtyard some much needed shade. I actually bought the “ceiling” (branches and grass) a while ago, but of course I haven't gotten around to it. A few days ago my neighbor told me that they'll spoil with the rain if I don't do something soon, so to make good on my 4 dollar investment I'll try to do it this weekend. I'll take a picture once it's done and try to get it on here.

I keep trying to buy a canari (sp?), but each week at my market they're too small. I'm talking about a terra cotta type vase that you surround with sand and fill up with water to make your water cold. Everyday between noon and 4 it is so hot that I'm drinking hot water. Not warm, hot. It's best to drink water right when you wake up in the morning. It's cold. Or cool.

During my last post, we debated the realism of former Peace Corps volunteer Sarah Erdman’s book Nine Hills to Nambonkaha, which took place in Cote d’Ivoire. In this week’s installment, Clay gives his two cents on the book he feels truly captures the spirit of Africa:

If you're at all curious about Africa, I recommend Kapuscinski's Shadow of the Sun. It is the best book I've read on Africa since I've been here. Not only is his style the closest thing I've seen to great minimalist writing since Hemingway (Sorry Raymond Carver fans, I just don't buy it, not completely anyway), he lived and traveled throughout Africa for close to forty years. He was a Polish journalist and possible Soviet spy, and was present through most major coups and revolutions during the sixties and seventies. Now this shouldn't give you a false impression about what I live through day to day, but it is a great book on African social life, the countryside, and the “African” mentality, if there is one (Africa being so large and all - no one says there's an American mentality which includes everything between Canada and Patagonia). Most PC volunteers will recommend Dark Star Safari by Theroux, but I liked Kapuscinski a lot more.

One way to escape the Sahelien furnace is to simply leave. Of course, that’s easier said than done for many who live here. Peace Corps volunteer Mac Wisdom was lucky enough to book a trip with his family to Spain. Walking through Madrid’s Prado Museum, he found that his mind couldn’t help but wander back to Burkina Faso and reflect on his good fortune.

But, as I always do, I am going to harp on the fortunate people, comme moi. We can do almost whatever we want to do. My neighbors and friends here, the villagers, some will never set foot out of the reality, the harsh reality, that they live day-to-day. They are tough. Some tell me I am tough because I come here to live a communal life with them. Bullshit. I will be here for another 17 months roughly, that's much different than a whole lifetime spent sitting on a cart lashed to a donkey, steering the poor ass towards the water pump. There I was, one day, walking through the Prado, listening to the Red Hot Chili Peppers on my MP3 player. The next day, there I was back in Burkina. I realized how good I got it when I was flying over Aribinda. We probably flew really close to right over my village. Man, what a life I live. I am truly blessed.

It wasn’t long ago that Caleb was living rent free on a couch in a damp shed. One of the lessons he learned – other than the positive influence of not paying for housing – was when living amongst other creatures (read: creepy crawlies often found in sheds) one must not try to master the environment, but learn to live in harmony with these insects. It’s an important lesson learned because it’s come in handy for him in Burkina Faso.

From his blog Burkina Faso or Bust:

Having already had this ecosystem disturbance experience in the past, I had learned that spiders are our friends and can be allowed to live to catch flies, malaria carrying mosquitos and what not. Also, since I now had my protective mosquito net to sleep in, I had no worry of “bug attacks” throughout the night. I embraced my new ecosystem and integrated into it. After integration, I soon realized that it wasn't only the spiders that were helping out. If I killed something such as a centipede or roach, I left it were it met it's untimely end. Then, during the night, the other inhabitants of my house that either live in my walls or in my drop ceiling descend and dispose of the body and evidence by morning. It is like a well oiled machine. I believe it is the ants that are doing the majority of my dirty work, but now they have gotten to an annoying population level and have started to bite me, leaving welts on my skin that last for weeks. I need to introduce the lizards that live in my ceiling into the ecosystem to keep the ants under control, but then I would have a lizard problem. Eventually this wourld turn into an ”I know an old lady that swallowed a fly” type of situation and there would be no end in sight.

Changing subjects a bit, I recently recounted a tale told to me by a friend who had her house broken into. When her family awoke, they scared off the robbers, but not before they could make off with two laptops. The next morning, her husband went to report the crime at the police station, where he was asked a peculiar question: Did the robbers leave a phone number?

From Africa Flak:

Apparently, thieves have been breaking and entering into peoples’ houses, making off with their goods and then offering to sell the goods back to them. Rumors have it getting your laptop returned to you will only set you back around 100.000 FCFA, about $240. The reason for this, my friend says, is that thieves usually have to sell the purloined laptops out of the country to make a profit. So they may as well cut their losses and sell the computers back to their happy owners.

Needless to say no number had been left.

Let’s end with this, another crime story with a strange ending. It involves Girl Raised in the South, or GRITS, whose mother happened to be visiting when hey were about to take a bus ride down to Ouagadougou from one of the country’s secondary cities. After reserving two seats in the back of the bus, she went to put their luggage on the seats. It should be known that GRITS’s luggage contained the following items:

Two passports
A birth certificate
A social security card
Driver’s license
Two Ipods
A laptop computer
One lucky hat

She placed the bag in her seat, walked off the bus to say goodbye to her host family. By the time she re-entered the bus with her mother, the bag was gone. Everybody was embarrassed – a crime that took place right in front of a visitor. After everyone excited the bus to help search for the bag, and a quick trip to the police station, GRITS and her mother continued on the bus ride. From Ouagadougou she made frequent calls to her host family, who had taken out an ad regarding the theft on the local radio station.

From GRITS Heads to Burkina:

A week and a half later I am still in Ouaga working on training stuff with the new volunteers when I get a call. The most magical words I have ever heard come out of my host dad's mouth…”Stephanie, we found your bag!” WHAT?!?! In a city of over 300,000 people you found my bag?!?! With everything in it?!?! Oh yes! Truly, joy can not describe what I felt at that moment. Relief, gratefulness….it was amazing. As it turns out, 2 kids heard my radio announcement, and when they saw the kid with my iPod they called the station. Additionally, a teacher at the local high school had been informed about the laptop with missing cord, and saw two kids with my computer walking around looking for a power cord. When the teacher saw them, he stopped them and questioned them about it. They didn't have any good answers, so the teacher took their name, and called the police. Truly, it was a joint effort…a community effort…that I don't think would happen in the States… Oddly enough, all my valuables were in the bag, but all the small cheap stuff was missing.

…The kid who stole it was 17 years old, and evidently had followed me on the bus, and gotten off shortly after me. Since I wasn't in Ouahigouya when they found the bag I can't tell you what his consequences were, or what happened with him (a lot of people are asking me if he got his hands cut off…and honestly I don't know…although I did ask them not to physically abuse him–for what that's worth anyway).

2 comments · »»

Hyejin Kim: A praised young novelist among GVO authors

Paula Góes · 09:45

lingua → es

Global Voices celebrates, this month, Hyejin Kim's first anniversary as the GVO Korean Language editor. Settled now in Singapore after living in Korea, China, the United States and gaining her Rutgers University Ph. D. in Global Affairs, she works as a development adviser for the Singapore Korean School and as a technical interpreter facilitating exchange between Korean and Singapore markets and governments. Besides, she is a freelance writer: apart from the Global Voices articles, she has written for numerous publications, such as Asia Times and on OhmyNews.com.

Hyejin Kim is also a celebrated young novelist: her debut book, ‘Jia: A Novel of North Korea', has been highly praised as a very vivid and moving novel set in 1990’s North Korea. Perhaps more poignantly, this was an experience that changed for ever Hyejin's typical post-war upbringing views about not considering ‘North Korean as a real country and North Koreans as real human beings'. But is this first book of hers just a novel? Hyejin lets us know in this interview.

When did you start blogging? What is Katong Couple about?

Honestly speaking, I'm really bad at blogging and the reason why I (and Erik, my husband) made a blog was due to Erik's efforts and Preetam's lecture on how good and how useful it is. I'm still a rookie. Katong Couple is about our lives in Southeast Asia, but not limited in Southeast Asian issues. I know I always have excuses not to write it. We always talk about issues together, but Erik is the only one who writes it. I feel pressure that the next post should be from me, but it hasn't happened yet.

It has been one year since you started collaborating for Global Voices. How did it all start?

I was a citizen reporter of the English section of OhmyNews.com, an online newspaper which citizens can participate in as journalists in Korea. At the OhmyNews Conference in 2006, I met Global voices staff members. For those staff members who have not been in Korea before, I took them to Seoul as a volunteer guide after the conference. It was the first time for me to get to know about what Global Voices is. At that time, I heard that they don't have a Korean editor. Several months later, Georgia contacted me whether I'm interested in participating as the Korean editor. Preetam Rai, Southeast Asian editor, was the one who supported to put me in.

Which is your most memorable post for GVO so far and why?

Hard to choose one. I like all posts when I can see what's really going on in other countries through GV authors and bloggers.

“While you travel to a new place, reading books about that area whenever you have time is a significant key to travel. Indulged in a book at Borobudur, Yokyakarta, Indonesia”

Which are the main issues reported by the Korean blogosphere?

It is interesting to observe the Korean blogsphere. Korean portal sites are always full of many colors and graphics. There are a lot of popular things that they talk about. Fashion, entertainment, graphics, and their private lives…. But one major issue that netizens love talking is about politic and social parts. Major portal sites have blog reporters. Netizens focus on talking about politics and express their opinions. Arguments over politics are always hot, hot, hot.

Your book has been described as the first novel about present-day North Korea to be published in the West. Is it true that ‘Jia' is more than just fiction?

Long story… I went to China after finishing my master's degree in 2001. While I studied Chinese and taught English at schools in Northeast China, I had the chance to meet a person who helped North Korean defectors (I only learned this much later after I became a good friend of his). In addition, while I got used to living in Northeast China and traveling in the region, I encountered North Korean children who wandered around the streets. The longer I lived there, the more stories and gossip about North Korean defectors I heard. Another world existed, one that I hadn't recognized or had just ignored. During the time I stayed in Northeast China, by chance I joined a South Korean group who visited churches that were building up missionary activities in towns in the region. Even though I was not a Christian, I was allowed to join their travel after serious consideration (I was rejected twice; when I had given up, they contacted me the night before their travel started). Through the travel, I was able to obtain more stories about North Koreans through direct and indirect interviews.

At one point, my friend and I stayed with a North Korean family that had run away from North Korea. The father, according to his own story, escaped North Korea after the leader of an underground, anti-regime group to which he belonged was executed. During the interview with him, a professional soldier who had worked as a guard at one of the most famous hotels, the idea of writing a story first hit me. Around the same time, a North Korean woman I got to know through my friend became the inspiration for the character ‘Jia.' In real life, she ran away from North Korea and married a Chinese man who could not communicate with her due to the language barrier. Even though she had a chance to go to a safer place, she rejected the opportunity to leave China because of the child she had left in North Korea. She wanted to live in a place closer to her hometown and child. Due to guilt and stress about being caught, she suffered from chronic headaches and depression, but never begged for financial support and never stopped putting on a cheerful face.

When I had chances to go back to South Korea, I started gathering information and research materials related to North Korean defectors and life in North Korea. Based on interviews and fieldwork, I framed the story. After returning to the U.S., I started writing the whole story.

Jia: A Novel of North Korea

Jia: A Novel of North Korea's paperback cover

What does it tell the world about North Korea, this country which is so closed to outside world?

The reason why I felt compelled to write this story was that I wanted to share what I have felt when I encountered North Koreans in a third place, not in North Korea and not South Korea. I also wanted to focus on PEOPLE's lives, not just repeat what the media tells us about how bad the North Korean regime is and how crazy Kim Jong Il is.

The novel format gave me the opportunity to relate the amazing stories of the North Koreans I met. Indeed, I hope readers come away from the book having learnt something about the kinds of struggles some North Koreans face. In addition, through ‘Jia' I tried to allow North Koreans to tell their own stories. Too often we hear about North Koreans from the perspectives of others. Reports often portray North Koreans as ‘victims' or North Korea as ‘evil,' but those characterizations don't do justice to the experiences of individual North Koreans. I tried to allow the personal struggles of North Koreans to come though in ‘Jia,' without obscuring those stories in the political lenses of international security, human rights, or the Korean desire for reunification.

Are you working on another book at the moment? As a writer, what inspires you?

I am working on an article for a book that is part of a series of a book, Reading Current TV, with Manchester Metropolitan University. It is about the role of broadcasting and language policies in Singapore. It will discuss how language policies that have been implemented in Singapore have been connected to major TV channels in Singapore. A little bit academic style…

Besides that, I'm jotting down several stories in my computer or my notebook now, but I don't know whether they will come out as a book. It's just my habit to write memos when ideas arise. I make a story based on my messy memos.

As a writer, talking with people from different cultures, and encountering them would be one of the biggest inspirations for me. It always makes me look at myself.

You have been “based in a different country almost every year”. Any good tips for packing and unpacking and traveling? Which is your favorite place in the world?

Now I'm based in one place and try to travel as much as possible whenever I have time. Good tips for packing and unpacking? Try not to pack so much. Try not to unpack so much!

My favorite place is anywhere I can see local people and anywhere I can see their lives. I love wet markets and small alleys. When I travel, I try to harass my feet as much as possible.